Perspective

Friday 10th September

Perspective

In the summer of each year Luwawa holds a 50km mountain bike race around the around the green, mountainous region of the Viphya Ridge on which it lies – The Luwawa International Charity Mountain Bike Marathon . Hundreds of competitors from all over the country and further afar ascend upon area and meet at Kasito Lodge, where the race begins. Cyclists from the Blantyre Cycling Club from the south along with those who compete for their country at international events attend. It’s a big deal.

Amongst the racers is a slight man, who is usually dressed in a button-up shirt and waist-coat. As the race starts he bolts to the front and keeps pace with the leaders up the gruelling hills and between the trees of the thick pine forest. It’s the day of the England vs USA match, England’s first of the 2010 World Cup. The strong British influence in Malawi with the addition of it being the first time Africa has been host to the biggest sporting event on Earth means that the locals, along with the English in town, are already creating a buzz around the place. With roars from the crowds as the first two competitors arrive at the Lodge, the finish line, attention turns to a bike making its way over the brow of the hill.

Amazingly, the bike belongs to the gentleman who had burst from the blocks. Not a member of the cycling club, let alone an international athlete. He arrived in, taking third position. An incredible feat. “You can have the day off tomorrow” a deep tone came from the crowd. That voice was of George, the lodge owner-manager. “Well done Davis!”

Davis is the bartender at the lodge. An absurdly easy guy to get on with. At 27, Davis has a springy youth about his approach to work and the most welcoming smile one could give.

Yesterday, whilst chatting with Laura and John about the rail-network in Africa, I invited Davis to join the discussion. Why there is no rail-network in Malawi deceives me but that’s another issue. Davis joined us as I posed him a question “Davis … have you heard of the London Underground?” I continued our line of discussion. “Huh!?” was his reply, with the most confused look upon his face. If the man ever needed to cover a lie it would be impossible with his facial expressions. The man barely needs to say what he’s thinking, it can be read on his face.

After explaining the system and its advantages it was clear Davis was astonished. He hadn’t said so, but his rhythmic shaking of the head with hands squeezing his temples, followed by the occasional clap and a ruffled laugh said all it needed to. The conversation continued and transport stayed on the agenda. Whilst questioning John on his experience on aeroplanes, Davis almost hit the roof upon discovering you could go to the toilet mid-flight!

“Wow, you know what?” Davis speaks reasonably good English, as do most Malawians, “If god was here,” he planted the index finger of his left hand of the table. Moving his right hand with the same finger out, I realised he was showing us a scale. He slid his right hand along and finger by finger. “You Mazungu would be here.” Mazungu, meaning ‘European’ according to my Bradt guide to Malawi or ‘rich white man’ according to a visitor at the lodge earlier in the week.

This was not the point of our conversation. Terribly, I felt as if we had been boasting of ‘our’ achievements! This man, who had cycled 50km in just over 2 and a half hours, finishing less than five minutes behind the winner was somehow linking the others in the conversation with great achievements of transport systems, bridges and other engineering triumphs because of the colour of our skin? The country we had grown up in? Was this general perception or the fault of our discussion?

I found it a little hard to take in but as we all dismissed his comment the conversation moved on and I had little time to think about it. If I needed to anyhow redeem myself in my own mind, it took only moments to do so. John turned the table’s discussion onto Laura’s and my head torches which were rested on the table. Opening mine to reveal the battery, I stated “I’ll need to get another one of these soon”. “IN MALAWI!” Davis burst into fits of laughter. “Oooooh no” he carried on chuckling. He thinks I’m stupid.

Good, at least he knows I couldn’t build a bridge.

So we were finally able to get down to Luwawa village today. A station built by the British for the Forestry Commission a couple of decades ago. Guided by John, we took out a Toyota 4x4. It’s taken a bit of a pounding over the years and shows it. Cracked windscreen, doors which bounce back when you slam them and an unmistakable orange tinge to everything from the dust which is whipped up from the dry roads.

Meeting the headmaster of the school was first on the list. After the formalities, I asked how I could help. At first he squashed my idea of PE. “We don’t need it, it is not assessed”. I’ve heard that same message in disguise a few times back home. “But” he continued as he reached for a small plastic bag to his right, “we do have these!” He pulled out a couple of skipping ropes and explained that a couple of people from the UK had given them to him a few months ago. The shame was, they still had the cellophane on them.

After a short tour of the school, being followed by at first two children, which soon became about 15 we moved onto the Luwawa Health Clinic. There John introduced us to Lucky, a gangly gentleman in a casual shirt and glasses. I’m not sure what his role was but I’m pretty sure he was a doctor, he never actually said. He was impressed with what Laura offered in terms of physiotherapy, telling of how many of the injuries men have here are due to machinery. Breaks are treated with a cast in the local town and the men are sent back to work as soon as the cast is broken off. ‘Physio’ barely exits and of course the injuries continue to problem people. Pneumonia is another area where Laura hopes to be of help. Apparently, another large problem in the area.

Returning home we met the Coca Cola truck which had arrived at the lodge as we left. Only this time it didn’t look the same. A soft edge to the road had caused the vehicle to tip off the road and rest at an angle pushing 45 degrees. The driver was in high spirits and joined us in on the journey back to the lodge to call his boss. I’m not sure if they have got it out yet but John tells us he could hear barking at the other end of the phone line when the driver called. Oh dear!

So, for us it’s going to be a relaxing weekend before the start of our work in the school and medical centre. We’ll both arrive at our respective places of work for 7:15 on Monday to begin our introductions. We’re both highly motivated, want to help and make our skills more permanent. It’s one thing to help for 6 months and move away on but we both want to pass our skills and knowledge on, taking much on board too. Development of ourselves is as key to our mission as any other aims and goals we have.

We’re ready to start.